Our taxi
arrived in the evening at T and T Villa, a small, three star hotel in Hoi An.
We checked
in, and walked up two flights of stairs, since there was no elevator. The staff, seeing that I was blind, kindly
asked if we would like to move to a room on the ground floor. I said it would be fine using the stairs – after all, there
was a constant noisy beeping from car and scooter horns at ground level.
After a
short rest, we headed out into the city.
Our first task was to find a mini-mart, said to be about a ten minute
walk away, so that we could buy supplies such as bottled water. Imagine a Japanese lady helping her nine year
old son along, with her blind husband tapping his cane and holding her shoulder
as they make their way up unfamiliar streets.
The roads were very uneven, and there were many scooters parked on the
pavement, meaning we had to constantly step into the road for stretches until
the pavement became free again. Crossing
busy roads was very difficult the first few times, since there were no
pedestrian traffic lights and several lanes of beeping scooters.
But we did
get used to it. The locals were very
friendly and helpful. Sometimes a
scooter would stop to block the traffic to allow my wife to get us at least
half way across the road. You could stop
half way and just let the traffic pass in front and behind you until a gap on
the other side became available. At
other times, local pedestrians would gesture for us to cross the road alongside
them, as they zipped between the vehicles with a practiced ease.
We made it
to the mini-mart. We got our water, some
snacks, and a bottle of nep moi, a Vietnamese rice vodka. It is about 30 per cent alcohol, and a few
glasses each evening helped me sleep soundly!
It was
already getting late, so rather than look for any particular restaurant, we
decided just to stop at a random restaurant that seemed to be selling
noodles. So we had our first meal in
Vietnam in a pho restaurant that turned out to serve only vegetarian
dishes. I ordered something that was a
light soup with noodles, vegetables and several different kinds of tofu. It was delicious. My wife shared a different noodle, vegetable
and tofu dish with our son. It was as
nice a meal as you could hope for, and the total cost for the two dishes was
50,000 Dong. That’s about 315 Japanese
Yen or 1 Pound and 50 Pence in U.K. money.
It was
stiflingly hot and humid. My wife said
that as the lady cooking our meal was ladling vegetables and tofu into our
noodle soup, a big bead of sweat was running down her face. As the sweat reached her nose, my wife
wondered if it was going to drip into our soup.
It didn’t, and she smiled as she gave us our meals.
As we were
walking back to the hotel, dodging scooters and bumps in the road, the sweat
was dripping down my back too. There
were smells all around – coffee, spices and frying food everywhere. The roads were a chaotic bustle of
noises. I felt like I was in a human
soup. And I loved it.
As a blind
person on holiday with others, I can sometimes feel quite left out. Everyone else is sightseeing – literally
looking at a beautiful view or statue or painting that I cannot see. But on my first evening in Hoi An, I felt
very much a part of the trip. I could
hear it in the bustle of life around me, smell it in the great variety of foods
on offer all round, and even feel it dripping down my back.